Welcome on set. By honoring our invite and standing on these bleachers, you are taking part in a performance.
A moment of irony in the midst of the Fashion Week craze, a little pause from the frenzy that pushes us through these times.
After the show is over, we will be quick to jump off the stands and frantically hail down a taxi, click our fingers on our smartphone to track our Uber or run to the next thing.
Time feels stretched as you wait for the show to start. Impatient chit-chat fills the air. The stress of not being able to make the next event sparks visceral anxiety. Try to ground yourself.
It’s okay if you don’t concentrate on the looks, they will be filtered through the lens of your iPhone and saved for later. An integral part of the spectacle, simultaneously the main character and director.
Since you are in motion with us, please follow our instructions and allow yourself to become fully entrenched in the show. You are standing inside of a cinematographic stage.
Please record all your footage in slow motion. Crystallize the moment. Disconnect from the chaos.
PASSEGGERO LONTANO SCORGO
LE NUVOLE SUBLIMI
CRESTE SFRENATE 21 GIORNI
E PIÙ NON SIA
IN TEMPESTA LUCCICANO BRILLANO
E TUTTO TACE IMMOBILE
VOGLIO VIVERE E NIENT’ALTRO
Founders and creative-entrepreneurs Loris & Simone have never gone as far as this season with volumes. Materials have never been so stiff, proportions have never been so bold. Blazers are structured representing SUNNEI’s way into tailoring. Jersey and knitwear are this Fall Winter’s main characters.
A myriad of colorful tight jersey pieces layer on models, adapting to their bodies and celebrating each one’s unique conformation.
Experimentations in knitwear give graphic effects. Chenille articulates from the thinnest expression with a wave motif to 3D looks given by the use of thicker fur stitches. Flashy knit pieces coexist with technical iterations consisting of pieces featuring several multidirectional ribs. The outcome reminds of materials used in shoemaking but it actually comes from a long and slow process conferring extreme stiffness.
The print of the season is “Where’s Angelino? which is probably the most recurrent question on SUNNEI’s group chat as the brand’s beloved french bulldog likes to hide inside the 1000 sqm headquarter. Taking inspiration from reality is one of the SUNNEI-est approaches, accompanied by the dramatic exasperation of a 3D game and using fashion as an opportunity to interact with final clients who will look for Angelino on the pieces they wear.
Attention to details has become even more evident with a predominant presence of diagonal zippers on the front of dresses, skirts and trousers. A maxi fold on the upper part of dresses and pants gives life to unfamiliar dimensionalities.
For the first time, the silicone studs of the brand’s iconic 1000CHIODI Shoes are employed for ready-to-wear, gloves and bags.
SUNNEI’s recurrent nostalgia for the 1990s and 2000s is materialised in the comeback of pompom balls which adorn the Fall Winter 2022 most ostentatious pieces.
SEE YOU SUNNEI
/ˈsiː/ /ˈjuː/ [sun’neːi]
SEE YOU SUNNEI is a play on words based on the correct pronunciation of the label’s name.
Fall Winter 2022 repurposes some of SUNNEI's signature pieces along with eclectic, new experiments.
The brand’s first technical backpack ever is taken to the extreme by using fringes transforming it into a gigantic pompom.
Labauletto Bag is seen through a fresh lens resulting in a twisted version with a different volume, while the Pudding 360 Hobo Bag is made of strips of scented rubber tape: each color corresponds to a specific smell (vanilla, strawberry, lemon and apricot).
The Torre Velasca Bag is a tribute to one of Milan’s most emblematic architectures.
Concerning the footwear collection, the team’s research focused on materials resulting in the use of knitwear, suede, rubber and glitters.
The familiar Dreamy and 1000CHIODI styles take on new guises with the transformation of the former into boots and platform-heels and the several improvements made on the latter.
New models include lace up flat shoes with a flocked treatment on the upper.
As far as accessories, headbands are the main character.
Jewels take the shape of silicon pompoms, metallic cubes and earrings with “S”, “U”, “N”, “N”, “E”, “I” charms.
Milan’s urban landscape provides the backdrop for the set designed and curated by 2050+ and SUNNEI: a temporary cinematic stage exposing the hectic spectacle of the fashion industry.
Fashion events are synonymous with an accelerated temporality. They embody a rush against deadlines, flowing from one place to another, persistently chasing time. For a matter of days, the city becomes the scene of a continuous flux of gatherings and occasions, allowing no time for pause.
In an attempt to maintain the pace of an ever-moving fashion industry, SUNNEI FW22 takes place in the busy streets of Porta Romana, southern Milan – a district suspended between the industrial past of the city and its cultural aspirations for the future.
The aesthetics of the stage – conceived as a transportable, technical infrastructure – echoes that of a movie set: a two-tier tribune, 60 meters in length, accommodating guests, inviting them to become participants of a staged act. Suspended above their heads, a bridge structure supports props and other devices: cranes, butterflies, balloons and grip clouds, all with various textures, materials and colors overlapping one another.
Speed animates the entire show. A taxi halts at one end of the street, from which the models shuffle onto the designated path. They do not walk, but rather run along the tribune, sprinting past the guests on one side, and an industrial building on the other. As the final model reaches the end of the path, the show is already over. Guests move away. The structure is rapidly dismantled. All traces disappear. It is time for the next fashion show, and the guests are already late. What is everybody running towards?
SET UP: 2050+
STYLING: VITTORIA CERCIELLO @ManagamentArtists
PRODUCTION: APRIL STUDIO
MAKE UP: CLAUDIA MALAVASI @W-MManagement
HAIR: RAMONA ESCHBACH @TotalWorld
CASTING: SUNNEI & ANDREA PRATO
MUSIC: PAOLO TOCCI